In Lisbon Portugal,

Debi joined me for more adventure!  We indulged our senses with the traditional flavors and sounds of Portugal .. a Fado Evening at the popular local restaurant, Casa de Linharees.  Fardo (destiny or fate) is a musical genre that can be traced back to the 1820’s but probably with much earlier origins It is characterized by mournful tunes and lyrics, often about the sea and nostalgic feelings or missing someone.  With food and wine, it was a warm welcome back to Lisbon.

The next day we kept it going with a taste of the Portuguese Riviera by visiting the picturesque mountainous region of Sintra.  It was all fairy tale castles, spectacular mountain vistas and fantastic shopping.

Onward to Spain…..we were prepared to be entranced….and we were indeed….by the amazing architecture and serene landscapes of Spain’s Basque country gem Bilbao.  The area is full of charm with beautiful beaches, the city built between cliffs and skirted by the majestic Nervion River.

However, it is the Guggenheim Museum of Modern Art, designed by renowned architect, Frank O. Gehry, that draws most visitors.

The building is covered with over 35,000 titanium tiles and pieces of glass strategically placed to catch the natural light.  This masterpiece of flowing titanium and limestone reflects Bilbao’s heritage with its suggestion of maritime shapes and sails.  Jeff Koon’s iconic Puggy was a personal Favorite for both of us.

Bordeaux, France….a wine lovers dream came next.

It is synonymous with quality and prestige and the promise of endless opportunities to sample the city[‘s famous full-bodied red wines.

Our ship was docked on the river right in town…. We walked everywhere and found the only authentic restaurant opened on a Sunday…1925….where the owner was not only the sommelier but also served us our dinner plus made our Crepe Suzette at the table. 

In our few days in Bordeaux we crammed in as many experiences as possible.  One of our favorites was UNESCO World Heritage , Saint Emilion Village with food and wine pairing lunch at Chateau de Ferrand.  We couldn’t decide which was more fabulous….as the next day we drove thirty minutes to the Pessac-Leognan vineyards and Chateau Smith Haut Lafitte.

Since its purchase by Florence and Daniel Catheird in 1990 the winery has become one of the leading lights of Bordeaux thanks to its elegant powerful red and white wines.

Since then, the owners have not only brought the wine od Smith Haut Lafitte up to the very highest level, but also restored the chateau’s 16th century tower, completely renovated two underground cellars, built their own cooperage and introduced such organic methods as horse-drawn ploughing, homemade composts and the use of plant extracts.

After a tour of this magnificent vineyard, we proceeded to the tasting room for a private tasting of 3 wines.  An unforgettable day!

Our tour of France continued in Saint Malo, which is a great jumping off spot to visit the renowned, Mont St Michel.  Since we have visited this “Wonder of the West”, a Gothic style Benedictine Abbey, we chose to explore Brittany’s Picturesque Villages.

The contrasting attractions of Dinan and Dinard are a world apart in appearance that exists with only a twenty minute drive from one another.  The first is a walled hill town still bristling with fortresses, with more than its fair share of wobbly half-timbered houses on ancient streets…. While the latter is a former fishing village that became an elegant and affluent resort in the 19th century, complete with a casino.

Next, Our route took us to Saint Peter Port, Guernsey.

At the Les Rocquettes Hotel and restaurant, we were treated to a refreshing  gin welcome drink before sitting down to a three-course lunch expertly crafted with each dish paired with wine to elevate the flavors to new heights.  The chef explained the locally sourced ingredients used for each course and why they are all so special to the island.

After lunch we took a short walk to J B Parker’s Bar and Cellar.

Nestled beneath the ancient cobbled streets of Saint Peter Port, this atmospheric bar houses a captivating underground wine cellar where the sommelier chose his favorite vintages for us to sample.

Afterwards, we took a leisurely stroll back to the pier, allowing us to soak in the beauty of this enchanting island.

The mysterious continent of africa

MANY FACES OF AFRICA….AROUND THE WORLD IN 140 DAYS with Sherrill…

Africa has many faces. 

Some heartbreaking.  Others are inspirational.  For me that is the essence of this continent, particularly on this journey from South Africa, up the West Coast to Senegal.

Two decades ago I visited Africa for the first time to camp out in The Serengeti with Firelight Safari’s.  It was a cosmic occurrence. 

There were only 6 of us – three women from Chicago and three younger women from California.  Since then I have attended two of their weddings, baby showers, gone on anniversary trips and we visit together whenever possible….such is the power of seeing together our first lion in the wilderness. 

I have returned to Africa many times on land safari trips.  However, on this journey I chose a cruise which took me from South Africa to Senegal.

Our first port of call was Port Elizabeth, an uncut gem. It is a holiday destination for wealthy South African families for its unspoiled beaches and it is close to two game parks.

I could not resist another chance to see the fabled Big Five – lion, elephant, rhino, cape buffalo and leopard.

I took a dusk game drive with dinner in the wild and then arose at dawn the next day for another including brunch in the bush.  Seeing animals in the wild is a gift I endlessly appreciate.

On to Durban, a melting pot of ethnicity with all cultures from Zulu (Caught  a performance of the Zulu Warriors), to Indian (the largest population outside of India).  The restaurants are fabulous and reflect their diverse cultural scene.

Ah, Cape Town, one of my favorites, sprawling across the staggeringly blue coastline and watched over by the iconic Table Mountain.  I have visited Robben Island with Mandela’s cramped cell and taken the tour of long walk to freedom….it is heartbreaking and inspiring.

On this visit

I chose a lighter way to enjoy this city by visiting its famous vineyards and educating my palate beyond my favored champagne.  A tour worth taking.

Luderitz, Namibia was a new destination for me, as was each county up this coast, and its “Skeleton Coast” of scorched desert and seemingly endless sand dunes had another world beauty.

Walvis Bay is so rich in sea life and is a bird lovers paradise.  I spent a lovely day on a small boat and was befriended by a few curious pelicans and a very energetic seal.

Walvis bay is on the cusp of the sun-scorched Namibia desert.  Dune 7 rises up to form the highest sand dune in the country.  Here, amongst the dunes I attended a private party.  Under a full moon I enjoyed the local cuisine, traditional Namibian flavors, with music and entertainment I have seen nowhere else in the world….a night to remember.

Our next port of call, Luanda, Angola was a total surprise.  As capital of Africa’s second-largest oil-producing country it is a study in contrasting economies.  Its renaissance offers luxury hotels to a restaurant lined oceanfront promenade to locals hawking homemade goods at crowded public markets.  A must visit is to go out to Miradouro de Lua, a mini Grand Canyon.

Tema, Ghana,  broke my heart. The people are friendly and beautiful and live in conditions which rival anything I have seen in my travels.

My aim here was to take the two hour drive, passing through towns, villages, and the countryside to the Krobo region which is famous for its beads.  My goal was to leave some money for local artisans.  The Cedi Bead factory, a compound of small peaceful gardens and thatched buildings is home to the art of making glass beads of many designs and colors.  It is only done in Ghana and is a true African treasure….I am happy to report that I achieved my goal.

At Takoradi, Ghana, a must is the UNESCO World Heritage, Elmina Castle and Cape Coast Castles, where I also reached my goal of donating to the economy of Ghana.

Banjul, The Gambia, is a place of scorched sunlight and faded colonial history.  Market Circle is a whirl of wonderful shopping possibilities.  A visit to the Kachikally Crocodile Pool, one of three sacred crocodile pools used as sites for fertility rituals is a must visit.

Our last port of call in Africa, Dakar, capital of Senegal.  The former colonial trading post stamps the Cape-Vert peninsular with beaches.  Those wanting to delve deeper into the history should visit House of Slaves on the UNESCO World Heritage Site listed on Goree Island.  I chose to close out this latest trip to Africa with a game drive where I was awarded with seeing an Ostrich sitting on several of her eggs….the Circle of Life….so totally appropriate for my farewell to a continent which so fascinates me…..until next time…

Debi will be joining me as we cruise to Portugal, Spain, France and the British Isles.

Sherrill’s continuing 140 day voyage around the world.

Singapore is a spectacular, futuristic vision of a perfect city. It is designed with gorgeous outdoor parks, massive indoor greenhouses and beautiful recreational spaces between the “City Garden’s “skyscrapers. The lush green botanic gardens are a UNESCO World Heritage Site not to be missed.

For shopping I hit Orchard Road, a long tree-lined one-way street filled with luxury fashion boutiques and the shopping malls are iconic. My favorite hotel is The Raffles which just went through a perfect renovation, maintaining its old world charm. It is the home of the Singapore Sling cocktail. It is not my favorite, but everyone likes to try one once.

When you add in the Singapore cuisine which is a mouthwatering fusion of Indian, Chinese, Indonesian and Malay influences, you have a foodie’s dream.

I was on the city’s impeccably clean subway system, and I asked my guide, “Are the people here happy?”. Two unknown fellow passengers yelled out, “YES!” I believe them.

On to Phuket, Thailand, the largest island and some of the country’s most dramatic scenery. Markets were a must visit and the temples. A country rich in sights, scents, and sounds! I made sure I experienced the Thai Performance at Siam Niramet with dinner. My tastebuds were tantalized by a mixture of Thai, Indian and Malay delicacies before a not-to-be-missed evening of music, dance, amazing costumes and unbelievable production values. Truly breathtaking!

Sri Lanka, or Pearl of the Indian Ocean, as many call it, was our next port of call. It is just off the coast of India and not surprisingly, it felt as if I was back in India, as the influence is everywhere.

Particularly in Trincomalee, the gateway to Sri Lanka’s historical treasurers and the finest natural harbor in the world.

The temple of the Thousand Pillars is a classical-medieval Hindu temple complex that is well worth a visit.

The only reason to go to Hambnota is as a jumping off to Yala National Park. Leaving the ship at 4:30 am, we arrived at this renowned wildlife sanctuary and national park by 6 am. It is famous for its high density of leopards. My safari jeep was the only one, amongst many, to be at the right place at the right time to spy a leopard running across the road in front of us.

Even better, was watching young male elephants playing on the road in front of us. It is such a gift to see animals in their natural habitat. Game drives truly are one of my happy places.

Located just off the east coast of Madagascar, Mauritius is another tropical paradise in the Indian Ocean.

It is a vibrant cultural mix of impressive mountains, boundless sugar cane plantations and exquisite beaches. The Port Louis Main Market (also known as the Port Louis Main Bazaar) is a treat with its exotic fruit and vegetables, clothing, wooden and traditional handicraft products, local jewelry and souvenirs at very low prices.

The Seychelles, world renowned for their pristine water and beautiful beaches, was our last stop before heading to South Africa.

But I couldn’t leave until I spent time with their Giant Tortoises.

Now on to the mysterious African Continent.

For more travel inspiration, Debi shares her winter hibernation in Hawaii, check out Debi’s published travel article in the Classic Chicago Magazine in the below link:

https://classicchicagomagazine.com/hibernate-in-hawaii/

And oh by the way, Debi share her delicious Hawaii flavored Divine Biscotti recipe, Yum!!

This was my first visit to the Garden City of Xiamen, China, which is a historic trading city surging towards the future located on Tawain Straits. Bring there during the celebration for the Year of the Snake added extra color to the lush greenery as red lanterns were hung all over the island.

The many parks are lush, beautiful and gathering spaces for the locals. In one park – a special area is roped off for feeding pigeons - which I was told is a favorite pastime. The day I visited whole families were feeding and visiting with their favorite pigeon families. The city is also known as an important collection and distribution center for Oolong Tea. I confess to enjoying the VERY best pot of Oolong Tea I have ever sipped.

On to Hong Kong, a world class city with a remarkable history.

They say the only way to get to know a place is to do what the locals do – when in Hong Kong, shop! Shops are open late, some until midnight. You will find a bargain roaming the chaotic open-air markets in search of designer knockoffs or you can find the real deal going for half its regular price in one of the many malls.

Hong Kong has a spectacular serrated skyline of soaring towers and neon lights. A favorite day for me was taking the Star Ferry to Hong Kong Island, shopping Stanley Market, taking a Junk ride in Aberdeen, which remains a fighting village, going to Victoria Peak for the best views over Hong Kong harbor and taking the Peak Tram down for even more spectacular views and ending the day with Afternoon Tea at the Iconic Peninsula Hotel – how many ways can I say , BLISS.

No visit to the North of Vietnam is complete without a stay at Ha Long Bay, a magnificent landscape and UNESCO World Heritage Site. Dotting the bay are tiny islands bordered by white sandy coves and hidden caves which I explored.

I left the other world beauty of Ha Long Bay for a day trip to Hanoi to delve into the city at center stage during the Vietnam War. A visit to the infamous “Hanoi Hilton” which held many American servicemen was sobering and thought provoking. Outside, visiting the beautiful city, especially The Temple of Literature, dedicated to Confucius, and watching the families in traditional dress celebrating the Lunar New Year brought me back to the moment. Time does indeed heal old wounds.

Leaving the North, we headed to the central region of Vietnam with a visit to Da Nang, surrounded by rolling rice paddies, grazing water buffalo and soaring limestone scenery. The city is bustling with as many motorbikes as people. Always daring to be curious, I quite enjoyed my Pedicab ride through all the traffic to the Old Town. The market is huge, chaotic but full of great inexpensive souvenirs to take home. The undulating humps of the city’s Dragon Bridge soars across the River Han, At night, strobing lights illuminate its flowing form and the bridge’s dragon head spits fire into the dark.

Nearby Hoi An, a city revered for its well-preserved history and legendary culinary scene, was a gastronomic adventure never to be forgotten.

After a sunset cruise along the river, while enjoying cold champagne, I dined at the Cargo Club Café which serves a curated menu of sumptuous Vietnamese comfort food – assorted mixed dumplings, Pomelo salad, Bun Hai Sun, a tomato based seafood noodle soup with prawns, passion fruit sorbet as a palate cleanser, Black Pepper Beef with Jasmine Rice and Coconut Prawns , ending with sauteed bananas with coconut milk.

I ended my Vietnamese visit in Ho Chi Minh City, formerly known as Saigon and most still refer to it that way. It is a place of incense-infused temples, colonial architecture, warm people and delicious street food.

Exploring the city’s many historic buildings and museums is one of the best ways to experience its cultural diversity. The Reunification Palace is a wonderful example of mid-century modern architecture that functioned as the South Vietnamese government’s seat of power throughout the war.

“Good evening, Saigon” at the top of The Majestic Hotel with traditional music and dances was the perfect way to end my visit to the city the French christened “The Pearl of the Orient.”

For more travel inspiration, Debi shares her winter hibernation in Hawaii, check out Debi’s published travel article in the Classic Chicago Magazine in the below link:

https://classicchicagomagazine.com/hibernate-in-hawaii/

And oh by the way, Debi share her delicious Hawaii flavored Divine Biscotti recipe, Yum!!

Sherrill will be going AROUND THE WORLD IN 140 DAYS. . .JAPAN FROM THE SNOW MONKEY’S OF NAGANO TO THE BATTLE OF OKINAWA….it is a country of many faces.

Joshinetsu-Kogen National Park in the northern part of Nagano prefecture is buried in snow almost half the year. With its steep cliffs and the steam coming off springs, it is a paradise for troops of wild Japanese macaque (popularly known as snow monkeys) to live and bathe.

To watch their antics in the hot springs, I had to climb – in boots with chains attached to bottoms – about two miles up and the same down. It is not for the faint of heart!

I was there during Chinese New Year’s so it was very crowded but I still recommend the experience. A word of warning –don’t make eye contact and hold it as the monkeys believe that is a sign of aggression.

In contrast to the natural wonders of northern Japan, Tokyo is dense, delightful and kinetic. I stayed at two five star hotels – the Mandarin Oriental and the Okura - which I would recommend for everything from the views of the city, the fabulous bathrooms with Toto commodes which are a wonderment and do everything except talk to you, to their wonderful restaurants offering unique tastes of the country’s cuisine.

My first port of call was Osaka, Japan’s third largest city. Since it was an overnight stay, I took the fast train to Kyoto, a slice of old Japan that is not to be missed. It was the ancient capital and to this day it is still the home of the Geisha culture.

I believe everyone knows that the city was spared being a target in WWII because the Secretary of War, Harry Stimson had honeymooned there.

It was well worth the comfortable fast train ride to visit Kyoto’s Kinkakuji Temple, the most famous and picturesque temple in Japan. The gold-covered structure reflected on the water is almost surreal. The Golden Pavilion walking tour is well worth doing. I also recommend a Nijo Castle walking tour. The Castle is unique as it looks more like a temple than a castle. Built in 1603 at the start of thw Edo Period, it served as a residence of the Tokugawa Shogunate until it ended in 1867.

No visit to Kyoto is complete without a Kaiseki traditional multi-course Japanese meal. I have only a vague idea about what I enjoyed. There was raw, simmering, fried, grilled and boiled. All colorful and tasty!

I next visited the Hiroshima Pace Memorial Park, a UNESCO WORLD HERITAGE SITE. Walking in the leafy boulevards to the Flame of Peace and to the Children’s Peace Monument brings quiet contemplation.

The Children’s Monument is a homage to little Sadoko Susaki, who was just two in 1945 when the bomb was dropped. When she developed leukemia in 1956, she believed that if she folded 1,000 paper cranes – a symbol of longevity and happiness in Japan – she would recover. She died before she finished her task but her classmates finished the rest.

Today, children all over Japan make paper cranes and bring to hang at the monument. This and the museum displaying personal belongings, compelling photographs and stories of the sadness and aftermath of the bomb is a must for all visitors to this city. Its decades long remarkable restoration is truly inspiring in its scope.

Beppa Kyushu Island is located in a particularly volcanically active part of Japan – hence the abundance of hot springs or in Japanese, onsens. The viewing pools have evocative names. I didn’t hesitate to kick off my shoes ad pamper my feet in both Blood Pond Hell and Sea Hell. My travel weary toes thanked me.

One of Japan’s most southerly major cities, Kagoshima is dominated by the imposing Sakurajima volcano’s cone. An old-time ferry chugs across the still water to the foothills of the sloping foothills of the volcan’s cone. The volcano has had 30 major eruptions in recorded history and is still erupting as it was spewing during my visit. Dusty day but well worth it even though I had to always wear sunglasses to keep the ash out of my eyes.

My final stop in Japan was Naha, Okinawa. Here food is life and the delicious regional cuisine is one of the secrets to its residents longevity. It is in one of the world’s “Blue Zone”, an area where people live longer than average life expectancy and the island’s diet is thought to be the reason. I sampled the cuisine and felt younger!

I spent the day exploring the monuments dedicated to the Battle of Okinawa, one of the deadliest battles of WWII. U.S. troops landed on April1, 1945 and it took 82 nightmarish days for the island to be captured. I started at the former Japanese Navy’s underground headquarters and then on to the Himeyuri Monument. It is dedicated to over 200 female students and their teachers who died as volunteer nurses in the Himeyuri Corps. This monument so touched my heart, I felt it fitting to end my exploration of Japan at the Peace Memorial Park and Cornerstone of Peace. It is located overlooking the ocean and stands as a symbol of the tragic loss of life for the Okinawan and Allied Forces.

Peace study is taught to every elementary student in Japan. I felt that commitment to world peace every day I spent in this beautiful country.

Debi is Hibernating in Hawaii but before we get to her Adventure, we would like to let you know that Debi has one of her delicious Divine Biscotti recipes featured in “Taste of Italia,” on newsstands now through March, also available at Whole Foods and Barnes and Noble.

NOW, GETTING BACK TO DEBI HIBERNATING AND RELAXING IN HAWAII...

In a straight-line flight of 4,198 miles outside of Chicago, there stretches a 48 mile-long volcanic landscaped island filled with colorful tropics and golden beaches basked by endless timeless sunshine.

Stepping off the plane, I immerse myself in the harmonious Aloha Spirit of Maui.

I am open for a self-redirection and heightened energy circulation of mind, body and spirit. Check in at the Grand Weilea’s Kilolani Spa, a fully reimagined wellness space, recognized in the 2024, “Vogue Global Spa Guide,” as one of the 100 Best Spas Worldwide.

The open-air dining and views of the Pacific are breathtakingly stunning. The Maui Mahi Mahi is caught fresh every day.

Check-out our YouTube video for much more of our adventures.

“LIFE IS A JOURNEY, NOT A DESTINATION”

-RALPH WALDO EMERSON

…..and it is at the heart of Bigbiggerbiggest.life – fill the journey with what makes your heart sing!

Take that Art, cooking, sewing,(fill in the blank) class!  Write that book!  Take that trip!

So we are taking that trip this winter!

Sherrill will be sharing Around the World in 140 Days – yes, a World Cruise!

Debi will be sharing her adventures in Maui, Hawaii and California as she follows the sun.

We haven’t been everywhere but its on our lists!

Join us and let the adventures begin!

 PS.

The Classic Chicago Magazine recently published an article that Debi wrote regarding her travels and culinary experiences in Alba, Italy. 

https://classicchicagomagazine.com/truffles-and-wine-in-the-piedmont/ 

Enjoy!

Ciao, 

Debi and Sherrill

“You must write about it – otherwise you didn’t do it – otherwise it didn’t happen -otherwise it’ll all be forgotten tomorrow”

Famous British Travel Writer, Robin Hanbury-Tenison

It was hard to tell When

I entered the Amazon River as it is 185 miles wide where it meets the Atlantic. But then gradually the water changed, turning the color of milky dark tea or coffee with a small amount of milk added to it.

Here was the mighty Amazon being fed by one thousand one hundred tributaries. At my first port of call in the Amazon Basin, Santarem, I saw “The Meeting of the Waters” where the blue green water of one of those tributaries, Rio Tapajos, flows side by side with the chocolate Amazon until they merge into one roar to become the world’s greatest river and one of the most important to the planet.

I was in the “lungs of the world” producing 20% of our world’s oxygen, surrounded by 10% of the earth’s species with new ones being discovered every 3 days, plus 50,000 species of plants,2.5 million species of insects, 3,000 species of fish and 1,3oo species of birds.

The Brazilian Rainforest has the subtle scent of smoke. I couldn’t tell if it came from forest being burned to clear land or came from locals cooking over wood. I hoped it was the latter.

Who knows what secrets

this great, green, remote, inaccessible jungle holds for mankind. Scientists are constantly gathering every kind of flora and fauna hoping to find cures for all our maladies. Certainly, every market I found along the river sold medicinal cures – potions, herbs, roots which has been passed down through the indigenous peoples for generations.

This was especially true at the vast shopping emporium, the Mercado Municipal in Manaus, the most isolated urban city in the world.

This building was designed by Eiffel in France and brought over in pieces during the hedonist days of the Brazilian Rubber Boom. In Manaus the Rubber Barons created “The Paris of the Tropics.” In this crazy moment of time, 1879 to 1912, the wealthy erected extravagant palaces with the jewel being the lavish Manaus Opera House which today would have cost two billion dollars to build. Then every piece of wood, marble, crystal was all brought from the very best artisans in Europe. It took 14 years to build, and it has now been lovingly restored to its former glory. Other grand structures have not fared as well.

Everywhere there is a feel, a look of decay. The hot humid air is not kind to the lofty monuments’ men build to themselves. Some facades remain with the jungle growing within and I sensed soon it would claim dominance overall.

One of the great pleasures of writing about travel

is not always landscape, or history, or architecture – it is people. I found this particularly true on The Amazon.

Boca Da Valeria is a village of 75 to 100 but when a boat anchors off shore and tenders arrive so do dozens of children from two other small settlements up a narrow tributary. They bring their pets - a turtle, sloth, bird, monkey to show me and the women present their crafts of beading or crochet. The men offer their dug-out canoes for a journey up a narrow tributary. I chose my canoe and on this journey, I discovered the romance and serene beauty of this watery paradise – drifting past water lilies – being taken to a tree which houses a dozen nests and watching those native birds coming to attend their young – a heron striking a pose and butterflies fluttering around me.

The friendliness, the smiles I receive seem genuine.

I must stress this in not an indigenous village – those peoples have gone deeper into the Rainforest to maintain their way of life. This is a typical village along the river and the people are Caboclo, indigenous and Portuguese.

Some might wonder about the impact of such visits on these remote villages. However, I believe visiting, buying directly from the villagers, the kids gathering to learn the dances, make the traditional handicrafts, preserve their traditions.

Never was tradition more alive and well than on my last port on The Amazon, Parintins.

Usually, a quiet town until the Boi Bumba festival, an amazing spectacle of joyous song, dance, dazzling costumes, body paint and fantastical creature floats – all indigenous beliefs fused with African influences.

There are religious undertones of redemption but the outpouring of joy, and the energy of the dancers are more thrilling than the story being told.

It is the Carnival of the Amazon. It takes place in June and 50,000 people descend on Bumbodroma for the 6 hour dance competition between the red and blue teams.

For the visit from my ship, the red team gave us a one-hour version which, for me, rivaled the excitement and pleasure of attending Rio Carnival.

I left home to learn more about the world – it has left me filled with the thrill and urgency of what I have discovered and the joy of sharing it.

Zanzibar.  For me the very name stirs feelings of adventure and mystery and conjures up visions of waterfront palaces of Sultans and the labyrinth of narrow lanes weaving through Stone Town filled with exotic sights, smells and sounds.

I was not disappointed when I finally arrived on this Indian Ocean island.

Officially part of Tanzania, Zanzibar lies only 20 miles off mainland Africa but is a world apart in atmosphere.  Here, African, Indian and Arabian cultures come together in Stone Town, a maze of narrow streets that has been named a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of its architecture which reflects centuries of sea trade between Africa and Asia.

The Indo-Arabian architecture of the old Stone Town building housing the City Market is the perfect exotic backdrop for huge mounds of luscious fruit, fish caught only moments earlier squirming across the stone floor, while men sit playing bao, a traditional board game, and women in their bui bui, Islamic cover-alls, shop and pause to chat.  The sights, smells and sounds are intoxicating and I could have spent the entire morning wandering through the market, bargaining for fresh fruit and sampling cooked on the spot shrimp, but the mystery of Stone Town drew me out into its narrow streets.

Passing large carved doorways concealing opulent courtyards – browsing through shops and stalls selling local crafts, African jewelry and ebony carvings representing shetani, spirits that take on animal or human forms in Zanzibari witchcraft (Zanzibar is a renowned centre of voodoo) – I made my way to the site of the Great Slave Market.

Arab Slave Traders made Zanzibar the hub of slave trade in all of East Africa.  On the site of their old market a beautiful monument has been built in honor of the decree by the Sultan of Zanzibar on June 6, 1873 that stopped the slave trade in Zanzibar, thus ending a dark time in its history.  The underground chambers still remind where men, women and children were held before they were sold on the market. There is a pulsating feeling of lingering ghosts in the shadowy chambers with patches of sunlight filtering in through narrow windows to warm the cold stone floor.

Newly intrigued by the Omani Sultans of Zanzibar, I made my way to the Palace, now a museum.  The last Sultan ruled prior to the 1964 revolution and there are many relics of the family life they lived while in power.  The staircases creak under my feet as I explore the top floors and there is a soft swoosh of fans cooling the high ceiled rooms crammed with large paintings of past Sultans and one particularly beautiful portrait of Queen Elizabeth II as a young woman when she visited with Prince Philip.  The Palace/Museum staff are delighted to talk about the times of the sultans and about the virtues of life in Zanzibar with its peaceful union of so many different cultures. From one docent, I get a recommendation for the best Indian Restaurant in all of Zanzibar.

When I travel I enjoy meeting and talking to the locals who are always eager to help guide me to their favorite haunts.  The docent’s directions to Silk Route takes me through the streets of Stone Town to the end of Shangani Street, around a deep curve to an arched doorway with a small wooden sign swinging gently in a welcome breeze.  Three flights of white washed steps loom in front of me. At the second landing I am greeted with a cool towel and told to proceed to the third floor restaurant. It is a large white room with arched windows cut into stone and through which the Indian Ocean glistens bright blue in the powerful sunlight.  There is a murmur of several languages being spoken above the whirl of overhead fans.

Without requesting the best available table in front of an open window with a view over the rooftops to the ocean where several traditional wooden dhow boats plow through the waves, I am given it.  The owner comes to greet me and makes recommendations from the large menu. I choose my favorites, Butter Chicken and cheese naan. It is perfectly seasoned and as delicious as I had been told. So much so, I splurge and order a second order of naan and add their homemade chutney.

When I compliment the chef and bid all a farewell they suggest I stop for a drink at their most famous hotel, Zanzibar Serena, located a short distance away.

Half way down Shangani Street, I enter the historical stone building which is the exotic world of the Serena Hotel.  From the turbaned doorman to the beautifully carved wooden doorways and lattice work to the tiled floors, it is exactly what I hoped to find in a hotel in Zanzibar.  The air is perfumed as an elegant graceful hostess leads me through the arched ceiled hallways to the quiet bar open to the white coral sand beach and the Indian Ocean.

While sipping perfectly chilled champagne, I gaze out at remnants of coral stone walls glowing amber in the late afternoon sunlight.  Not only did Zanzibar not disappoint, it has made my list of favorite places I have found on my travels. I’ll be back.

Zanzibar Serena Hotel, Shangani Street, Zanzibar, Tanzania  E-mail:zanzibar@serena.co.tz Website:www.serenahotels.com

I had to travel half-way around the world to discover through Myanmar Astrology that since I was born on a Wednesday and my husband on a Saturday, we are the perfect match – destined to have a lifetime of happiness – which might explain how we’ve endured for so long!

Thus began a voyage of enlightenment into a country isolated from the world for decades because of military rule and only recently opening its borders as a democracy.

As most visitors do, my adventure begins in Yangon, the largest city of Myanmar.  Traffic is chaotic until we turn down a quiet tree lined street in the Embassy Quarter and pull up to the Belmond Governor’s Residence.  The elegant teak mansion dating from the 1920’s is set in extensive gardens with lotus ponds and an amazing fan-shaped pool blending into the lush surroundings.  Music coming from a party at the Sri Lanka Embassy across the road completes the sense of slipping back into a bygone era when Myanmar was known as Burma.

Yangon is home to many fine buildings and temples that are well worth a visit but the mighty Shwedagon Pagoda cannot be missed!  Gleaming with gold leaf, its Umbrella and Vane studded with jewels topped by a Diamond Orb totaling 1,800 carats, it looms over the city.

I do recommend entry with a guide even though maps of the pagoda are available in many languages.  All material reminds visitors that the dress code for visiting temples and pagodas is no shorts, covered shoulders, plus shoes and socks must be removed on entry.

Our guide, carrying a small black book which turns out to be a 100 year calendar, leads us to our appropriate Buddha’s.  Mine – Wednesday – is represented by an elephant and my husband – Saturday – is a dragon. We bathe our Buddha’s in clear water for a blessing and then strike the large bell, its deep bong echoing through the vast complex, to share our blessings with all there.

Everywhere I wander, in the pagoda and on the streets, I find the Burmese people very friendly and helpful - especially when I enter a local small three story mall seeking a hair salon for a quick fix after dusty days of travel.  The receptionist speaks English and tells me I must wait my turn. Dutifully I join dozens of men, women and children doing the same. In a few minutes I am ushered into the shampoo room which consists of several long massage tables and told to take off my shoes, lie down on my back with my head slightly off the table. For the next 25 minutes I experience utter bliss as my hair is not only shampooed three times but I am given a head and neck massage worthy of the best masseur.  To add to the pleasure, another young woman gives me a hand and arm massage. Highly recommend you treat yourself to this unique pleasure!

Totally relaxed I am ready the next day for my very early flight from Yangon to Bagan, one of the main visitor attractions in Myanmar and one of the greatest historic sites in Southeast Asia.

My first sight of Bagan is the breathtaking vista of over 3,000 temples, most built between the 11th & 13th centuries, dotting the plain beside the Ayeyarwady River.

We stroll through the bustling morning market at Nyaung, with its stalls piled high with exotic fruits and vegetables and typical Myanmar products such as betel leaf ( which the Burmese chew) and thanaka wood that is made into Thanaka Cream.  This is the first time I notice several Burmese women and children wearing a yellowish white paste all over their faces. I am told Thanaka is a unique feature of Myanmar and widely believed to keep skin looking young, supple and elastic plus protect from harmful UV-A rays.  Hoping for the best, I rub some onto my cheeks before proceeding to the jetty to board my ship, Belmond Road to Mandalay, anchored in mid-river.

We are greeted with cold glasses of champagne (a good start) and led to our state room which is larger and better appointed than I had expected (additional points!).  After a brief rest we head back to visit one of the most significant pagodas of Bagan, Ananka Temple. This architectural masterpiece was built in 1090AD and contains four gilded Buddha statues standing 30 ft tall.  I roam through several other temples but am warned away from the many damaged in the 2016 earthquake which rocked this part of Myanmar.

As daylight fades I hurry up a hill to watch a glorious sunset over plains peppered with hundreds of ancient pagodas.  Then, after dark, we stop at a small temple near the jetty to participate in an exclusive candle-lighting ceremony organized by the ship.  Each candle we light is offered for world peace – a wish shared by all in the international group onboard the Road to Mandalay.

The next morning several options are offered for exploration.  Unfortunately, I did not book in advance for the Hot Air Balloon Ride at Sunrise which I discover was essential so miss the opportunity.  Hint: book early! Instead of biking or taking a horse cart ride I choose to visit Taung Be Village near the jetty to participate in one of Belmond’s Social Contribution Projects – a free health clinic established by the ship doctor, Dr Hla Tun.  

Each week when the ship arrives in Bagan hundreds of patients, many coming from as far as the Chinese border, gather to be treated.  The clinic is on the grounds of the Nat-Htaunt Monastery and has volunteer doctors from around the world – the morning I visit I am pleased to report it was a doctor from Wisconsin USA seeing patients.

I am honored to meet the Chief Abbot, Ven Sam-Va-Ra and when the interpreter explains why I am visiting, he smiles and encourages me to write about the clinic and the work they do to help the Burmese people

As we sail along the Ayeyarwady River I see how simply they live.  The shore is dotted with farms and often farmers can be seen in their ox drawn carts moving from field to field.  At the water’s edge, families wash their clothes and bathe their children. There are no loud noises, no chaotic traffic here in the countryside.  When the ship anchors mid-river for the night the silence is serene and the sky blazes with stars in the utter blackness.

At dawn we sail on to Myin Mu, the northern most point for cruising this trip.  During the early months of the year the water levels of the Ayeyarwody drop creating a narrower channel for navigation near Mandalay necessitating the ship mooring at this riverside town 30 miles south of the city.

Always on my travels I find seeing the natural life of a country and contact with the local people the highlights of my visits.  This is true in my tri-shaw ride around the town visiting markets and families of bamboo weavers. And again in the afternoon walking through the picturesque farming village of Alacapa, experiencing the warm friendliness of the people and glimpsing a life-style unchanged for centuries.

Because of the river level we must drive into Mandalay.  On the way we are rewarded by being stopped by a parade which consists of a wedding party, a group attending an ear piercing ceremony and families celebrating their sons being inducted into monkhood.  It seems a fitting prologue to arriving at Kuthodaw Pagoda, a UNESCO listed site with 729 stone tablets inscribed with Buddhist scriptures.

The sights of Mandalay are many and varied: streets of the marble quarter where artisans sculpt Buddha’s of all sizes; outdoor workshops of bronze casters creating statuesque Buddha images and ceremonial gongs; the famous UBein Bridge, one of Myanmar’s most photographed sites and too irresistible not to walk across; Sagaing Hills, the spiritual center and home to hundreds of pagodas, monasteries, nunneries and Buddhist learning centers; and finally Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda, its high vantage point offering a spectacular panoramic view of the city.

It is fitting to leave my ship in beautiful Mandalay to fly to Inle Lake which proves to be the most unexpectedly fascinating sites of all my travels.

My plane has no assigned seats – everyone is on their own!  The flight is short and my transit through the tiny airport at Heho is swift.

It is an hour’s drive to the edge of the lake and the Inle Princess Resort – offering 46 guest chalets crafted by Intha carpenters from bamboo and reclaimed hardwood.

Almost immediately we board our private open air long tail boat to explore this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, ASEAN Heritage Site, National Wildlife Sanctuary and a national Wetland Sanctuary.

The Intha people row standing up with one leg wrapped around an oar.  Our “leg rower” takes us away from the resort jetty and we drop him at his home on stilts before our driver fires up the engine for our first day on this vast water world.

Birds soar overhead, the Elephant Head Mountain Range surround us in this photographers dream of calm waters dotted with floating vegetation, fishing canoes, and entire villages built on stilts.

For three glorious days we explore by boat to visit silk weavers, admire endless floating gardens where fruits and vegetables are grown.  We stop at the small market of Indein to visit the Sagar Pagoda complex with dozens of small stupas, which are in very bad condition but I can still see fascinating Buddha images.  There is a traffic jam of local boats as a farmer bathes his two water buffalo in the channel leading into this floating village.

The day we visit the big five day market in Nanpan is a true insight into the life style of the ethnic Pa-O, Danu and Intha people who come to sell their goods.  The market contains everything! Endless stalls are piled high with fish, meat, vegetables, fruit, sweets, pottery, fabric, electronics, iPhones from Korea, plus barbers, a dentist, tailors with treadle Singer sewing machines, and a pharmacy where no prescriptions are needed to purchase drugs from China and India.

This beautiful, unique and fragile world truly enlightens me into the Myanmar culture and touches my heart.  I leave you with a few truths and tips for your journey to mysterious magical Myanmar.

• The Myanmar people are friendly, helpful and polite

• Respect the Myanmar people and their unique traditions.

• Don’t take any photos that may make people feel embarrassed.

• Do smile

• Don’t point with your foot (In Myanmar the feet convey messages.  Pointing with your feet means disrespect)

• Wear appropriate clothes when visiting religious sites

• Do tuck away your feet (When you sit, your legs should not be stretched out and your feet should never face the Buddha)

• Don’t touch anyone on the head (The head is the most esteemed part of the body.  To be touched on the head is considered aggressive)

• Don’t kiss in public

• Don’t disturb people praying or meditating

• Calling with your finger up means calling for a challenge

• Visitors may experience electricity outages – please understand about the electricity situation in Myanmar

• Don’t touch the robe of a monk

• Do not go where you are advised not to go (Myanmar is slowly opening up and more destinations will be accessible in the future)

• Relax and enjoy your holiday! We did!